Nepal Earthquake

We have had so many people reach out to us in the past few days. Thank you all for your kind thoughts and words. We arrived home last Thursday and were devastated to hear of the earthquake early Saturday morning. Having just left Nepal 3 days earlier, in many ways, we could feel we were still there. Our thoughts immediately went to all the places we visited, the people we met, the new friends we made. Our thoughts and hearts are very much in Nepal.

All of the areas we were in Nepal (Kathmandu, Khumbu valley) have been affected. We've seen a lot of coverage of Kathmandu and Everest, but have not heard/read any info on all the small villages in the Khumbu between Lukla and Everest basecamp. Given their location, we tend to believe there has been devastation there as well, but communication in such small villages is always a challenge. We have received news that our friends on Everest are okay and just today have been helicoptered down from Camp 1 to Base Camp. We are so grateful to learn of their safety. Unfortunately, we also learned that 3 of their Sherpas lost their lives at Base Camp.

We can easily imagine the devastation in the streets of Kathmandu, having just been there in the last week. We have seen photos of places we visited completely destroyed. It feels very helpless to be here unable to lend a hand. So much devastation in a place with such extreme poverty. We wish we were there (safely) to lend a hand to the people of Nepal, but we think the best we can do right now is to lend financial support. Several folks have asked for suggestions on where to donate. We’ve listed a few below, but this is by no means comprehensive, there are a lot of good organizations who will do great work over there.

AmeriCares: http://americares.org

CARE: http://www.care.org
Juniper Fund: http://www.thejuniperfund.org/

Oxfam: http://www.oxfamamerica.org/

We'll leave you with a few photos of the smiling, beautiful, strong, kind people of Nepal. 

Namaste

Island Peak 20,305'

Since our last post, we've had two long treks heading back to increasing levels of civilization and warmth and John lost his phone in Kathmandu. So this will be a text-only post. The pictures for this climb will come after a while, but we believe they will be worth the wait.

After a breakfast of rice pudding and some energy snacks from our backpack, our team of 7 (5 plus 2 climbing Sherpa guides) started off in headlamps from the Island Peak base camp on time at 1:15am.

One of our group, who had been feeling a bit off since the trek in to camp yesterday, soon began having GI and overall weakness and problems. Twice he dropped his water bottle, inciting a stern warning from Rob, our group leader. After about 2 hours and 2000' ascent, he decided that he could not continue with us and turned around with our second Sherpa guide.

Our remaining team of 5 was strong and moving well. Before sunrise, we overtook a team that had started from a high camp. In the darkness just before first light, we heard the thunder of a significant avalanche, probably rolling off the southern flanks of Peak 38 across the valley. Not much was said, but I know both of us thought about the feet of snow that had fallen the days prior and what the terrain and conditions would be like higher on the mountain.

Eventually, the rocky trail and scrambling gave way to glacier travel and we roped up in a line to protect from falls into crevasses. This was a new experience for us. Along the way, there were some fixed lines, offering extra protection in some of the sketchier sections, an aluminum ladder across a 15' wide gap over a deep crevasse and one spot where we had to leap across a crevasse. It was much more of a varied and extensive glacier experience that we'd expected and quite exciting. 

So, we were first up the fixed lines on the headwall and John was first to attempt the 100' or so of knee-deep snow along the knife-edge ridge to the summit. Fortunately, there is a fixed rope along the left side of the ridge that he clipped in to, because about 3 steps along, he fell off the ridge to the left and performed his first real self-arrest with his ice axe. It worked, along with the fixed line, to stop him only 10 feet into a what would have been a much faster descent than intended, down the wrong side of the mountain. Amusingly, Dan readily relayed the matter of fact message to our leader, "Rob, John fell off the summit ridge".
Subsequently, we all made it to the very cramped summit point, soon followed by a team from Mongolia and we all took glory shots. As more teams were coming up behind us, we left after a short time and began our rappel (abseil, for the non-Americans) down the headwall. If we recall, it was about 4-5 pitches, but we were slowed by having to negotiate around several people who were ascending. Not a problem, as long we took our time and made sure we were always clipped into our safety lines, as we exchanged places with the ascending person...no rushing or taking anything for granted when this isn't something we do every day.
We all made it down to the flatter part of the glacier fine and then began to roast in the reflected sunshine off the all-white surroundings. Amazing how fast it can get really hot in a sea of snow and ice at 18,000' or so!
As of this posting, we're in Mumbai, India about to board our United flight back to the US in an hour or so. It's been an amazing trip and it's going to take time to process the experiences. Obviously, we saw amazing sights, but we also met amazing people who have touched our lives and inspired us in ways we know and will find out.
As we have some time over the coming weeks, we'll get some images organized and shared, but we hope that you've enjoyed sharing in some key parts of our journey.
Namaste...J&J

Lobuche to Chukhung and Indecision @ 15,500'

We had to pull out our long-distance slog experience for the long trek back to the village of Lobuche after our Lobuche East summit. As is often the case, the way back felt a LOT longer that than the way there the day before, with exhaustion firmly entrenched and the distraction of anticipation no longer a companion on the trail. Plus, as covered previously, Lobuche is not a cushy Honeymoon destination about which to get excited. Nonetheless, we got there, spent a cold night and headed out the next morning to Chukhung.

Looking to regain some strength, we decided to take the easy way around with Marie Krystal (MK), while the rest of the group headed up and over the high Kungma La (pass) to the next valley where Chukhung resides. We all arrived safely and before the 2 feet of snow that came that night.

Fortunately, Sunday the 12th was a scheduled rest day, which meant that the Chukhung Kgangri Resort dining (common) room, which is the only space in any of these places which is sometimes heated, was the center of activities. It was packed with two dozen-plus, mostly type-A folks of various nationalities, trying to do mostly nothing for a full 24 hours. Oh, and did we mention the WiFi had been non-functioning in Chukhung for 2 weeks and counting, and cell service doesn't exist there. It was a fun and social scene in which to be, and to observe.

In addition to creating cabin fever, the snow complicated our plans for Island Peak, which we had plans to climb on Tuesday, the 14th, after spending the night at base camp. Many questions to be considered...
-would there be more snow?
-how would the snow that had already fallen affect the conditions/avalanche risk up high?
-would our shoes and feet get muddy and wet on the way to base camp, and then freeze overnight? In which case we'd have to consider wearing plastic boots for the walk to the tents.
...and no firm answers to be had.

In multiple consultations with Rob throughout the day, he remained resolute in his commitment to our successful and safe summit. Our decision, however, was complicated by that fact that Island Peak, although important, was not the crown jewel of our trip and we didn't want to spend the next couple days wet, miserable and waiting at base camp, only to have to retreat lower without going for the summit.

In the end, at breakfast on Tuesday, Rob told us that Thundu had found the trail to be firm and dry enough. So, after 24 hours of indecision, we were in. While Hugh and Ben decided they'd had enough of life at 15,000'+ and headed down to Pangboche, our team of 7 headed off for base camp late morning and arrived just over 2 hours later, had a hearty pasta and cheese lunch, dal bhat dinner and headed off to our tents by 7pm, in anticipation of a midnight wake-up and 1:15am start toward the summit.

We are glad we made the decision to push on. The picture here is Jenn at base camp with Ama Dablam behind.

Namaste

Lobuche East Summit ~20,075'

Since our summit of Lobuche East, we've been without WiFi in the villages of Lobuche and then in Chukhung for the better part of a week, hence our total lack of communication for a while now.

As we trekked further up valley, we got closer and closer to our first peak climb. On Thursday morning we headed towards Lobuche East base camp. Upon arrival Jennifer started having intense nausea, and was not able to eat the plentiful dinner or breakfast that was provided at base camp. She did manage to choke down a few tea biscuits and a pop tart prior to the start. Intense nausea persisted throughout summit day, making it a very tough 24 hours for her.

We were incredibly fortunate to have a perfect summit day on Friday, April 10. After leaving base camp at 4:00am and a very challenging and exposed climb, we topped out around 9:00am to a cloudless, mild and windless summit. We were able to lay back on our packs and along with a jubilant South Korean team, enjoy the astounding views and enjoy our pack lunches of grilled nak (yak cow) cheese, pineapple juice and Mars Bars.

What an incredible experience! The views were amazing, as you can see in the video linked here. We learned valuable new skills for high altitude alpine climbing and rapelling, experienced our first base camp hospitality and enjoyed great teamwork. We also got a serious taste of the epic commitment, strength, endurance and hardship that must be endured to tackle an 8000 meter peak expedition...way beyond this, and this was hard!

Namaste

Lobuche East Peak

We are back safe after a successful summit of Lobuche East Peak today. We got up at 2:30am, left camp at 4:00 and summitted around 9:00 with amazing views of the entire Everest massiff. We're beyond exhausted and can't wait to get to sleep after dinner, so just wanted to let you know we're safe.

Lobuche 16,000'

Lobuche is one of those places people just want to get in and out of as quickly as possible. It's high, cold, muddy and crowded with few accommodations and a pinch point for just about everyone headed to Everest. We were very fortunate to get one of the better rooms on the second floor of Lobuche Peak XV Lodge and on the opposite end of the building from the toilets. Some of our teammates were not so fortunate and one has chosen to sleep on the bench in the tea room, instead of his room. Also, we've heard that there is a lot of intestinal disease going around here and at Everest Base Camp (EBC), with over 200 trekkers having been helicoptered down in the recent days. Not sure how much is rumor, but we're being even more vigilant of cleanliness.

Beyond that, though, we are in an amazing natural location, in the shadow of Nuptse, looking down on the Khumbu Glacier just as it decends from the infamous Icefall and Everest Base Camp. Right across from us to the SE is the Kongma La (pass), which we may cross in a few days, if it's passable, to get to Chhukhung and then to Island Peak. Just up valley past EBC, we see the Lho La (pass) into Tibet. Just a breathtaking space with massive mountains and passes.

After breakfast, 5 of us head to the Lobuche East high camp for our summit attempt tomorrow. Feeling strong for it, after our acclimatization hike up to 17,000' yesterday afternoon where we had incredible 360 degree views to Cholatse, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, and endless other Himalayan peaks.

The picture here is our group approaching Lobuche.

Namaste

Pheriche 14,000'

Getting the first great views of the peaks we'll be climbing in the coming days. They are intimidating looking, but the biggest thing we're concerned about is the cold up high. It's so difficult dealing with the personal logistics of getting ready for the day in our lodge rooms where the temp is about 40F in the morning. At the base camps for the peaks, we'll be in tents, getting up at 3am and 1am for Lobuche and Island Peak, respectively, and temps will likely be in the teens. Just tough to take care of basic activities, like getting dressed.

Off to the village of Lobuche today. This will be where Jennifer, Rob, MK, and our climbing Sherpa, Tundu will break off from the rest of the team for our attempt for Lobuche East Peak. The rest of the team will be heading to Everest Base Camp (EBC). We will reunite a couple days later and together we will go for Island Peak.

Feeling strong at these new altitudes so far. The next few days will be very interesting and exciting! Just amazing sights and wonderful local people and a great people on our team!

The picture is us approaching Pheriche with Lobuche East Peak prominent in the background.

Ama Dablam Base Camp

Yesterday, we hiked from our lodge in Pangboche, down to the river and then back up high to the Ama Dablam base camp. There were just a few expedition tents there, as this singular, beautiful mountain is generally climbed in the autumn and winter.

It was a milestone for us, as we reached a new high point of 15,000'. Previously, the highest we'd been was the summit of Mt. Elbert, the highpoint in Colorado at 14,433'. The past two nights we've also been sleeping at 13,000', which is the highest we've slept. We're feeling fit and strong, knowing that this is preparing us well for what's to come.

Yesterday we also got the first views of Lobuche East Peak, which we will attempting to climb on Saturday. It's a bit over 20,100'. The realities of that and the fact that 5 of our new friends will be attempting Everest in the coming weeks were brought a bit more to the forefront of our psyche as well, with our blessing ceremony by the Lama Geshe, which included the chant "Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hung Hri". Will try to internalize this for our climbs.

Here are some pictures of our trek to Ama base camp and the beautiful mountain.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/AD51UmMVyZvvLiws7

The picture here is Dr. Rob Casserly explaining the route up Ama Dablam, which he has summited. He's also going for his 9th Everest summit and his 1st summit of Lhotse this season
Namaste

Greetings from Pangboche 13,000'

WiFi has been very spotty, but we're not sweating it too much, as the scenery is getting more and more inspiring. Yesterday, we trekked from Namche to Pangboche, which is the hometown of our Sherpa, Tundu.

Here's the view from our room this lovely morning at 5:45am as we watch first light play on the giants. Ama Dablam prominent on the right, Lhotse in the distance to the left, Everest summit hiding behind where the orange and the clouds meet next over to the left. Yaks in the foreground.

Namaste

Namche Bazaar

Checking in from Namche Bazaar

Friday, we flew from Kathmandu to Lukla. We had both been a bit anxious
about the prop plane flight that lands on a hillside landing strip, but both the flight and landing were seemless with spectacular blue skies for our first sight of the Himalaya mountains. Then we began the trek, passing through many villages, and walking alongside heavily loaded yaks. Bright colors, smiling people and greetings of Namaste filled the day. We spent the first overnight on the trek in Monjo in a lovely tea house where we enjoyed a delicious dinner of dal bhat. The people have been very kind and welcoming, making us feel very comfortable and at home. The tea houses are unheated, but have a central tea/gathering room that is heated by a yak dung stove, which is quite pleasant and not as bad as it sounds.

Today we trekked from Monjo to Namche Bazaar (11k). We'll spend 2 nights here to acclimitize, doing some short trips up higher from town this
afternoon and tomorrow. Namche Bazaar is this incredible town built into a
hillside. It is the largest town in the area and is a trading post, the last place to pick up any items before heading further up the valley. The houses are painted in bright colors and the mountains rise high out of town. It is captivating.

We are the only Americans in a group of three Brits (two brothers and a
cousin) and our leader, Rob and his wife Marie Kristal (MK), who are
British/Canadian and French Canadian, respectively. They are doing their
best to understand our accents.

Kkkkkk, Kathmandu

We're with you if you get Bob Seger stuck in your head...
http://www.last.fm/music/Bob+Seger/_/Katmandu

Today we spent the morning touring a few of the sights of Kathmandu. First, was a World Heritage Site,  Pashupati, which is where all creamations have been done for several centuries. You'll see the family dip the feet of the deceased in the river, then the body is cremated in the funeral pyre for 3 hours. The ashes are then deposited into the river, which eventually runs into the holy River Ganges. Never seen anything like it before, as with most sights here.

Then we drove to Swayambhu (Monkey) Temple, overlooking the city. Lots of beautiful detail in the 3 large temples, as well as monkeys and feral dogs running free.

The city is busy, chaotic, dusty, smoggy and loud. One day of sightseeing was plenty for us, and we look forward to heading to the mountains tomorrow for a complete 180 change of scenery.

Here's a link to more photos from the day and maybe a video of the driving in the city.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WhoXBp47LGeo1RF3A

Probably the last time we'll upload so many pics, as the connections are very unreliable and it takes too long.

Kathmandu

After 3 days of travel we have arrived in Kathmandu. It is a bit insane, as
expected, but we've made it to Hotel Manaslu. Looking forward to not
visiting any airports or planes tomorrow, when we'll be sightseeing around
Kathmandu for a few hours. Then packing up for a prop plane ride into Lukla (the start of our trek) on early Friday morning.

Actually quite a safe city, although chaotic. One of the biggest risks is getting run over. Here is Jenn, in the middle of it on the way back from dinner in a rare moment there were not cars on this street. You can see a motorbike right behind her.